Welcoming Syawal with the Cocos Malays in Tawau

2026-03-22 - 03:21

Muhammad Arief Ab Razak with members of the Cocos Malay community in their traditional ‘kebayak’. (Muhammad Arief Ab Razak pic) PETALING JAYA: Amidst the bustle of Hari Raya celebrations nationwide, one village on Tawau’s outskirts keeps a different Syawal rhythm. In Kampung Balung Cocos, home to Sabah’s largest Cocos Malay community, the season goes beyond ketupat and rendang. Hari Raya is a living expression of heritage and identity sustained across generations. For the community, the 15th and 21st nights of Ramadan hold special meaning. These are marked by “Malam Ketupat” and “Malam Pasung”, observed in a strong spirit of togetherness. “On these nights, we prepare ketupat and pasung (a traditional kuih), and then bring them to the mosque to share,” said Muhammad Arief Ab Razak, a seventh-generation Cocos Malay. “It reminds us that Ramadan is ending and Syawal is near.” Their ketupat is distinctive, mixed with beans for a unique texture and flavour. It is best paired with ayam begana, a signature dish of the community. Ayam begana is rich and savoury, made with toasted coconut and thick coconut milk cooked slowly until dry. Its spice blend does more than please the palate: it reflects the resilience of their identity. After the meal, homes turn lively with the tradition of “hambur duit”. In an age of QR codes and digital transfers, villagers still toss paper money into the air for others to catch. It is not about showing wealth; it is a form of entertainment that strengthens bonds. Children’s laughter fills the air as they scramble for the notes, bringing young and old together in shared joy. The 15th night, known as ‘Malam Ketupat’, marks the nearing end of Ramadan and the approach of Aidilfitri. (Muhammad Arief Ab Razak pic) “The tradition has deep roots,” Arief said. “It symbolises the sharing of rezeki among relatives gathered during Raya.” Their uniqueness is also heard in speech. The dialect blends old Malay, Javanese influences, and western terms, shaped by Sabah’s linguistic tones. On Hari Raya morning, the elders tease the young: “Dah balok anak-anak sekarang ya. Dulu tidak gini” (“The children have grown up now; they weren’t like this before”). For singles, the teasing turns playful: “Anak siapa ini? Pandai berahi bah suda sekarang, apa dah ada tunangan?” – which roughly translates to: “Whose child is this? Already looking smitten – got a fiancé yet?” The dialect links them to their ancestry from the Cocos (Keeling) Islands in Australia. Their festive attire, too, carries its own history. Once worn for formal occasions in the 19th century, it is now reserved for celebrations. Men wear the “baskat” with a sarong and neck scarf. The patterns are said to reflect Maori influences from Polynesia, hinting at their ancestors’ wide connections. Women, on the other hand, don the traditional “kebayak”. Ayam begana, a must-have dish, is best enjoyed with ketupat or hot rice. Western influence is clearest in music and dance. The Cocos “tap dance”, with Scottish elements, reflects the legacy of the John Clunies-Ross family. Recognising this heritage as a cultural gem, the Sabah government promotes it through events such as the Tawau Cultural Festival. From wedding customs to the graceful Cocos Melenggok dance, these traditions are being introduced to wider audiences through these events. “Dance classes are also held to ensure the younger generation stays confident in carrying on these traditions,” said Arief, who documents and shares about his culture on social media. He sees Kampung Balung Cocos as part of a long migration story, tracing back to his ancestors’ arrival in Sabah in 1948. He hopes to someday reconnect with relatives in the Cocos Islands. “God willing, I will bring my family there and learn more about our history,” he added. In Kampung Balung Cocos, Syawal is more than a celebration after a month of fasting: it is a community holding on to its soul, thousands of kilometres away from its origins.