Riding Moscow’s metro through history, heritage and culture

2026-01-30 - 23:36

This photo doesn’t quite do it justice, but escalators in Moscow’s metro stations can be exceptionally long, sometimes taking close to 10 minutes between surface and platform. (Soon Li Wei pic) MOSCOW: Russia today is often defined by its technological strength, geopolitical influence, and leadership in nuclear technology – not to mention its links to war. Despite its advances, it is a country deeply shaped by its Soviet past. In cities such as Moscow and St Petersburg, architecture and public spaces still bear the imprint of that era. Monumental buildings stand alongside contemporary developments, creating a cityscape layered with history, ideology and ambition. I caught a glimpse of this last year during a visit to Moscow at the invitation of Russia’s state nuclear energy corporation, Rosatom, to cover World Atomic Week from Sept 25-28. Russia had never featured prominently on my travel wish list. Complicated visa processes and the ongoing Russia-Ukraine conflict had shaped my perception, as had restrictions on western social media platforms. Before this trip, Moscow existed in my mind mainly as a study destination for Malaysians pursuing medicine or aerospace engineering. What I discovered instead was a city that wears its history boldly, with Soviet-era architecture dominating both the skyline and daily life. One of my personal travel rituals is experiencing a city through its public transport. Before arriving, I studied routes and fares – only to realise Google Maps is largely replaced here by local alternatives. Yandex Maps quickly became indispensable, guiding me through the city with surprising ease. It also helped bridge language gaps, as most signboards are in Russian. In each of the stations, passengers will encounter ornate bronze or marble statues, stained glass windows, and Roman-style arches. (Soon Li Wei pic) What drew me most to Moscow’s metro was its reputation. Each station is known for its unique architectural identity, many built deep underground with long, steep escalators that add to the drama. Despite a packed programme, I explored the city whenever time allowed, using the metro as my primary guide. After landing at Sheremetyevo Alexander S Pushkin International Airport at about 8pm on Sept 24, I opted for public transport to my hotel in Kievskaya, roughly 33km away, even though taxis were provided. “Okay, please be safe and update us when you arrive at the hotel,” said Daria Ziusko, our media coordinator. She assured me that Moscow is generally safe at night, with public transport operating until 1am. According to Yandex Maps, my journey involved taking the Aeroexpress train to Belorusskaya station, followed by Metro Line 5 to Kievskaya. The entire trip took about 2.5hours. The Aeroexpress ticket cost 700 roubles (RM35.46), while the metro fare was 80 roubles (RM4.05). Communication was a challenge at ticket counters, but technology helped, and the journey unfolded smoothly. Underground grandeur Some of Moscow’s most striking architecture lies far below street level. With vaulted ceilings, marble floors and intricate mosaics depicting Soviet leaders, soldiers and workers, the metro feels less like public transport and more like a moving museum. This portrait of Vladimir Lenin, first head of government of Soviet Russia, can be seen at the end of the Kievskaya Metro Station hall. (Soon Li Wei pic) Opened in 1935 under Joseph Stalin, it was envisioned as a network of “palaces for the people”, designed to reflect national pride and ideological strength. Today, the network spans 302 stations across 472km, carrying millions of passengers daily and ranking among the world’s largest metro systems. Belorusskaya Metro Station, which opened in 1938 on the Circle Line, was my first stop. Named after the adjacent railway station, it features Belarusian national motifs, including 12 mosaic panels depicting life in Soviet-era Belorussia. At 10.30pm, the streets above were still lively. Inside the station, the preservation of artistic detail was striking, reinforcing how seriously Moscow treats its public heritage. Deep underground, everyday life From Belorusskaya, I travelled six stops to Kievskaya. The train was crowded with locals heading home, yet remarkably quiet. Kievskaya Metro Station was equally mesmerising, adorned with colourful mosaics celebrating Soviet ideals of work, family and unity. Lamps shaped like victory torches lined the escalators, while dramatic artworks portrayed struggle and triumph. One unforgettable moment was riding the station’s exceptionally long escalator, which took nearly 10 minutes from platform to surface. Many stations were built deep underground as bomb shelters during World War II – a legacy still felt today. The architecture in Moscow’s metro stations includes decorative elements honouring Soviet leaders, soldiers, factory workers and farmers. (Soon Li Wei pic) Fares remain affordable, allowing passengers to travel freely across the city once inside the system. Again, even with official transport provided for the event, I chose the metro whenever possible. Very quickly, I realised it was more than a way to get around – it was a destination in itself. Small acts of kindness I spent hours hopping between stations, photographing murals and arches, wishing for more time. Along the way, I encountered a side of Moscow often overlooked. Many travellers describe Russians as unfriendly owing to language barriers, but my experience was the opposite. Station staff and commuters were consistently helpful. Once, after getting lost at a station without ticket machines, I approached a passer-by using a translation app. He walked with me for nearly 10 minutes, tapped his card to let me enter for free and guided me to the correct platform. When I tried to repay him, he refused, smiled, and waved me on. The writer (far left) with fellow journalists and a Rosatom representative during World Atomic Week 2025. (Soon Li Wei pic) That quiet act of kindness stayed with me long after I left the station. In a city often perceived as distant or intimidating, it was a simple reminder that warmth and humanity can be found underground, between stations, where words aren’t always necessary. This article was written by Soon Li Wei.