Ramadan flavours, from Kashmir to Mauritius

2026-03-18 - 01:14

Across the Muslim world, Ramadan unveils a rich tapestry of regional cuisines prepared especially for sahur, iftar and evenings after tarawih prayers. (Envato Elements pic) KUALA LUMPUR: For Muslims, sunset during Ramadan signals more than the end of a day’s fast. It is also the moment when households, mosques and neighbourhoods gather to share dishes rooted in centuries of tradition. From Afghanistan’s rugged mountains to the island shores of Sri Lanka and Mauritius, and across India and Kashmir, Ramadan unveils a rich tapestry of regional cuisines prepared especially for sahur, iftar and evenings after tarawih prayers. Veteran journalist Qiesar Baba, who is based in Srinagar in Jammu and Kashmir, describes Kashmiri iftar traditions as both a spiritual and culinary journey. “The most distinctive aspect of Kashmiri iftar is the traditional way of breaking fast. While many Kashmiris begin with fresh dates following the prophetic tradition, the region’s signature iftar beverages are ‘babriyol’ and ‘katira’,” Qiesar told Bernama. Babriyol is a cooling drink made from basil seeds soaked in water or milk, while katira is made by soaking edible tragacanth gum until it becomes a jelly-like, crystal-clear gel. “Iftar would be incomplete without mentioning ‘kandur’ (traditional bakers) shops where ‘tchot’ (Kashmiri bread) is made in a clay oven, which becomes the bustling heart of neighbourhoods during Ramadan,” Qiesar added. In India, festive Ramadan snacks include “khajla” (poori) and “pheni” (fried vermicelli), alongside dozens of other dishes enjoyed across the country. India is home to the world’s second-largest Muslim population – more than 200 million people – after Indonesia, with Ramadan food traditions that vary widely between regions. Further west, in Afghanistan, mountainous terrain and colder weather influence the kinds of dishes served to break the fast. “There are many different ethnic groups in Afghanistan, and each has its own traditional food,” civil-society activist Khalid Ahmad Kohistani told Bernama from Kabul. “Popular foods during the holy month are ‘bolani’, ‘qotaqhi’, samosa, ‘pakora’, ‘torshi’ and yoghurt.” A selection of snacks popular for breaking fast in Kabul. (Bernama pic) After Maghrib prayers, more substantial dishes are often served, including “kabuli pulao” – sometimes described as Afghanistan’s version of biryani – along with “shorba” (a hearty meat stew) and “mantu” (dumplings filled with lamb or beef). Sri Lanka’s Muslim community, numbering around two million, also maintains distinctive Ramadan food traditions. One staple is “kanji”, a porridge made with rice and chicken or beef that is widely distributed at mosques. “Kanji is a must-have food during the breaking of the fast, and is mostly distributed in the mosque. It is good for digestion, and we also consume plenty of coconut water,” said N M Ameen, chief editor of the Tamil-language newspaper Utayam in Colombo. Other popular dishes include “hoppers” (similar to appam) and “pittu”, made from rice flour mixed with grated coconut, as well as chilled “sarbath” drinks. Further southwest, Muslims in Mauritius also mark Ramadan with their own culinary traditions. In the island nation of about 1.2 million – including around 250,000 Muslims – families gather for iftar meals that blend local and South Asian influences. “A lot of exciting things happen during Ramadan in Mauritius; there are private iftars, iftars in the mosques, and young people do a lot of charity. “Foods like ‘kalia’ (a creamy curry with yoghurt and potatoes) and ‘haleem’ (a thick stew) are popular,” Mauritian author Assad Bhuglah told Bernama. But the most unique – and perhaps, to Malaysians, surprising – item? “Naan bread, which is sold only during Ramadan.” Across continents and cultures, Ramadan’s diverse culinary traditions reveal how food remains a powerful bridge between heritage, community and faith – especially at the iftar table.