A laksa stall’s closure inspires a story of family and fate

2026-02-27 - 23:14

Janet Tay’s debut novel ‘Early Mornings at the Laksa Café’ explores food, faith and father-son conflict. (Janet Tay/Harvill pic) KUALA LUMPUR: For her debut novel, homegrown author Janet Tay found inspiration in a small culinary heartbreak – the closure of a favourite laksa stall. “There was this kopitiam in Kuching that I really liked for its laksa. Then one day it shuttered for good, and somehow that surprised me,” Tay, 49, told FMT Lifestyle. “I mean, inevitably, shops close, but that particular shop had been in existence since I was a child. I just never imagined it would be gone in my lifetime.” The closure left her wondering whether the owner’s children had chosen not to carry on the trade – a fate that has claimed many family-run businesses. Those thoughts sparked a creative shift. Tay had been working on a historical novel set in Sarawak, but the seed of a story about food, legacy and generational tension soon took root. The result is “Early Mornings at the Laksa Café”, published by Harvill in January. Set in Kuching’s Carpenter Street, the novel centres on Ah Hock, an ageing laksa master, and his son Wei Ming, a Hong Kong-based chef grappling with personal struggles. Family lore claims their laksa’s distinctive taste comes from a sacred broth bestowed by a deity, along with a blessing of prosperity – provided it is passed down from one generation to the next. But Wei Ming has no intention of inheriting the stall. When he returns home for his father’s birthday, long-buried tensions resurface, placing the family’s legacy at risk. The novel offers a poignant exploration of father-son conflict, set against the rich textures of Sarawakian-Chinese cuisine and migration history. Ang Lee’s 1994 film ‘Eat Drink Man Woman’ was among the inspirations behind Tay’s novel. (Ang Lee Pictures pic) “‘Eat Drink Man Woman’ and ‘Big Night’, two amazing films about food and family, inspired me as well,” Tay said, referring to the 1994 Ang Lee film about a semi-retired chef and his daughters. “Personally, I enjoy novels that tug at my heartstrings, and I hope I’ve written one that will do the same for my readers,” she added. Born and raised in Kuching, Tay now lives in Kuala Lumpur with her husband and son. Her short stories and essays on literature, food and parenting have appeared in various collections and magazines. The first act of her full-length play “Reunion” was longlisted for The Windsor Fringe Kenneth Branagh Award for New Drama Writing. Asked about her favourite laksa spots, Tay admitted she is a little out of touch. “In the past I would have said Min Heng or Choon Hui café. The latter is still around but I haven’t been there in recent years. It’s where Anthony Bourdain had his ‘breakfast of the gods’,” she said. “In Kuala Lumpur, I’m really not sure. I’ve been told there’s a shop that’s pretty good at Central Market, but I’ve yet to try it.” Beyond food, Tay hopes readers will gain insight into lesser-known chapters of Malaysian history, particularly Chinese-Malaysian migration to Borneo. Kuching’s Carpenter Street provides the setting for Tay’s tale of food and heritage. (Trip Advisor pic) “I do think that there should be more stories detailing this part of history, especially since it is a minority culture in Malaysia,” she said. “I’m also proud to showcase Sarawakian and Sarawakian-Chinese food, and hope there will be more Sarawakian stories published in the future.” A return to Carpenter Street may be on the horizon. A follow-up is currently with Tay’s editor and is, for now, planned as a prequel featuring cameos from characters in “Early Mornings at the Laksa Café”. Asked what advice she would offer Malaysian writers hoping to be published internationally, Tay said there is no single route to success. “The only thing within our control as writers is to hone our craft and make the book as good as it can be,” she said. “Just keep going, and learn every day – through workshops, reading other authors, even listening to podcasts. But don’t stop writing. You can only get better with practice.” More information on ‘Early Mornings at the Laksa Café’ can be found on Penguin Books’ website.