40 years on, Kak Jah’s chicken still defines Ramadan in Pasir Mas

2026-03-06 - 23:43

Now run by the founder’s grandson, Ayam Percik Kak Jah has been operating in Pasir Mas for over 40 years. (Ayam Percik Kak Jah Facebook pic) KOTA BHARU: By late afternoon, the air in Pasir Mas turns thick with smoke and the sweet-spicy scent of simmering coconut milk. Charcoal crackles beneath rows of skewered chicken as hands move swiftly – brushing, turning, brushing again – coating the meat in a deep red gravy that glistens in the heat. Regulars barely need to ask – one look, one whiff, and they know: this is the same ayam percik they grew up with. For more than 40 years, Ayam Percik Kak Jah Pasir Mas-Salor has been part of Kelantan’s Ramadan rhythm. The business was founded by Mek Jah Mamat, whose recipe became known for its rich, balanced red gravy – a marked contrast to the white-gravy versions found elsewhere. After her death 16 years ago, the recipe was safeguarded by her daughter and is now carried on by her grandson, Saifulizam Yasok, 44. “We keep everything the same,” Saifulizam said. “The taste cannot change.” What began in Kampung Pasir Mas has since moved to Pasir Mas-Salor after the original site was acquired for road construction. But customers insist the flavour – smoky, creamy and slightly sweet – remains untouched. On regular days, between 30 and 40 chickens are prepared, yielding about 80 bamboo skewers. As Ramadan approaches, production rises sharply. Each chicken is cut into four portions, with two pieces skewered together. Wings are prepared separately to ensure even sizing. At the grill, about 30 skewers can be cooked at once over carefully controlled charcoal heat, taking 10-15 minutes per batch. Behind the scenes, some 30kg of fresh coconut milk is used daily to prepare the gravy, which is simmered for about an hour until thick and aromatic. Demand now stretches far beyond Kelantan. Orders arrive from Kuala Lumpur, Perlis and Johor – many from Kelantanese working elsewhere who long for a taste of home during the fasting month. To meet that demand, the family introduced frozen ayam percik, prepared without preservatives. “The freezing process focuses on hygiene and proper cooking techniques to ensure quality,” Saifulizam said. “We want people outside Kelantan to enjoy the same taste.” Prices are set at RM21 per chicken skewer, RM4 for wings, RM3 for necks, and RM3 for liver and gizzards, while catfish sells at RM12 per skewer. Throughout Ramadan, more than 20 workers help keep the operation running. Even so, queues can stretch long. To ease congestion, Saifulizam has appointed runners and agents around Kota Bharu to distribute the ayam percik at several strategic locations, which allows customers to avoid long waits. Daily sales can reach RM100 to RM120 depending on timing, and stock often sells out quickly. For many, though, this move is not just about convenience: it is about continuity and ensuring Kak Jah’s legacy lives on – in smoke, in memory, and in every bite.